Fes City Info
Fes, the oldest of Morocco's four "imperial cities" (alongside Marrakech, Meknes, and Rabat), has served as the nation's capital several times throughout history. Its last tenure as the capital ended in 1912 when Morocco came under French control, and Rabat was designated as the capital of the new colony. Today, Fes ranks as the third-largest city in Morocco, following Casablanca and Rabat.
Often regarded as the spiritual heart of Morocco, Fes was once a global hub of scholarship, renowned for its Islamic teachings. It is home to the University of Al-Karaouine, established in 859 AD, recognized as the world’s oldest continuously operating university.
The city is divided into three distinct sections: Fes el Bali, the ancient walled city dating back to the 8th century; Fes-Jdid, or New Fes, which includes the Mellah (Jewish Quarter) established in the 13th century; and New Town, the modern district created by the French in the 20th century.
The sprawling, maze-like medina of Fes el Bali is celebrated as the best-preserved historic city in the Arab world and boasts the distinction of being the largest car-free urban area globally. In 1981, Fes el Bali was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Things to see and do in Fes
Explore the Palace Gates, the Mellah (Jewish Quarter), and Fes el Djedid. For breathtaking views of the city and its surroundings, visit one of the old fortresses—Borj Sud is ideal in the morning, while Borj Nord offers a better perspective in the afternoon. The Merenid Tombs, located near the Merenid Hotel, also provide stunning panoramic views of the medina, the city, and the olive tree-lined hills. Don't miss the pottery quarter outside the old medina, where the iconic Fes blue pottery is handcrafted.
Next, dive into the ancient medina, Fes el Bali, and wander through its labyrinth of narrow alleys. Immerse yourself in the enchanting atmosphere of this 1,200-year-old city, where you’ll encounter glimpses of timeless beauty, the scent of exotic perfumes, and even the earthy presence of donkey dung.
Discover majestic palaces, historic mosques, and medersas (Koranic schools). Watch skilled artisans create traditional crafts, and visit a Berber pharmacy, where rows of jars filled with roots, oils, and herbs adorn the walls. Finally, experience the famous leather tanneries, which still operate using centuries-old techniques. Here, you’ll find large vats of dyes, creaking water wheels, and shops selling exquisite leather goods, from shoes and bags to belts and jackets.
Landmarks
Bou Inania Medresa: This 14th-century religious college is a masterpiece of Islamic architecture and one of the finest sites accessible to non-Muslims in Fes. Admire the intricately carved wooden walls featuring geometric patterns and Arabic calligraphy, along with its stunning minaret. In the courtyard, you'll find a portico leading to a still-functioning mosque, separated by a small moat.
Moulay Idriss II Shrine: The tomb of the founder of Fes. While entry is restricted to Muslims, visitors can catch a glimpse of the shrine through its main gate.
Al-Karaouine Mosque and University: Established in 859, this historic institution is one of the world's oldest spiritual and educational centers. Its mosque and library boast beautifully adorned exteriors. Although non-Muslims are not permitted inside, the architecture can be appreciated from the gateways.
Al-Attarine Medresa: Built in the 14th century, this Koranic school is named after the nearby Souk al-Attarine, known for its spices and perfumes. It features exquisite Islamic architecture and craftsmanship, with intricate details in marble, alabaster, and cedar wood. Highlights include its elegant bronze door and a serene courtyard.
Bab Boujeloud: One of Morocco's most iconic gates, constructed in 1913. It marks the transition between Fes el Bali and Fes el Jedid. From outside the gate, enjoy a picturesque view of minarets and traditional houses framed by its archway. The gate's mosaics are symbolic: blue on the outside, representing Fes, and green on the inside, symbolizing Islam.
Museums
Dar Batha Museum: Located in a century-old Spanish-Moorish palace, this museum showcases an exceptional collection of traditional Moroccan arts and crafts. Situated near Istiqual Square, it offers a glimpse into the country's rich cultural heritage. Opening hours: Monday–Wednesday, 8:30 AM–12:00 PM & 2:30 PM–6:30 PM.
Belghazi Museum: Housed in a 17th-century palace, this private museum boasts a collection that rivals the Dar Batha Museum. Many of the displayed items are available for purchase—if your budget allows! Opening hours: 9:00 AM–6:30 PM.
Nejjarine Museum: Set within a beautifully restored 18th-century funduk (caravanserai), this museum features a remarkable collection of traditional woodworking. Historically, funduks served as inns for traveling merchants, with accommodations upstairs and storage or marketplaces below. The entire Nejjarine Square and nearby Carpenters' Souk have also been meticulously restored.
Arms Museum of the Borj Nord: Situated in a 16th-century fortress, this museum holds an extensive collection of antique weaponry. Even if you're not interested in arms, the architecture, craftsmanship of the exhibits, and breathtaking views of the medina make it worth a visit.
Restaurants & Cafes
NEW TOWN
Restaurant Zagora: Avenue Mohammed V. Tel: 0535-940686. Moroccan cuisine. Alcohol available.
Restaurant La Cheminee: 6 Avenue Lalla Asmae (just up the road from the train station). Tel: 0535-624902. Old fashioned french brasserie style, with Moroccan and French cuisine, alcohol available.
Restaurant Marrakech: 11 Rue Abes Tazi. Small Moroccan restaurant, moderate pricing. No Alcohol.
Maison Blanche: 12 rue Ahmed Chaouki, FES (near Jnane Palace Hotel). Bar lounge (with happy hour 19h-20h) and restaurant. Open 12h-15h and 19h-23h. French, chic, little pricy. Tel: 0535 622727.
MEDINA
Le Kasbah: Just inside Bab Boujeloud, one of the main gates of the medina. Climb up to the terrace overlooking the gate and the surrounding medina. Simple menu with tagine, couscous, brochettes.
Restaurant Zohra: 3 Derb Ain Nass Blida, medina. Tel: 0535-637699. Buried in the medina backstreets to the north of Kiraouine Mosque. Moroccan food, real home cooking.
La Maison Bleue: 2 Place de l’Istiqlal, Batha, Medina. Tel: 0535-636052. A typical old Fassi house, now an upmarket riad hotel that is also known for its restaurant. Must book in advance.
Al Fassia: In Hotel Palais Jamais, Bab Guissa Tel: 0535 634331. Highly regarded Moroccan restaurant at the renowned Hotel Palais Jamai has spellbinding terrace views over the old city's rooftops, Andalusian band and belly dancing. Faultless gourmet fare includes pastilla, couscous, tagine and mechoui (roast lamb). Book ahead; dinner only. Expensive.
Fez Lounge: 95, Zkak Rouah- Tala Kbira Tel: 0535 633097. New addition to the medina scene, contemporary décor mixed with tradition. Mediterranean inspired tapas, traditional Moroccan dishes like Pastilla and tagine, scrummy deserts (try the brownie!). Shisha. Open 11am-10pm.
Cafe Clock: 7 Derb El Magana, Talaa Kbira (near Bab Boujloud) Tel: 0535 637855. Magnificently restored house in the old medina, turned into a cafe. The people are friendly (and speak English) and the food is excellent. Ask to be seated on the terrace, and listen for the call to prayer coming from several minarets in the area. Regular cultural and music programs.
Le Palais de Fes: Also known as Dar Tazi. 15 Mokhfia, Place R'cif (near cinema Amal). Tel: 0535 761590. A rooftop restaurant over a carpet shop, Dar Tazi offers Fez's best pastilla and other traditional dishes.
Bars & Clubs
Fes is a conservative, Islamic city, so its nightlife is quite subdued. Social gatherings typically involve a refreshing drink such as freshly squeezed juice or mint tea, rather than alcohol.
Given that Islamic teachings generally prohibit the consumption of alcohol, there are no bars within the medina. Most places where you can drink are hotel bars. It's also uncommon for unaccompanied women to visit bars. If you're looking for a drink, hotels in the newer part of town are your best bet. This area also offers most of the city's discos and nightlife, with most nightclubs opening around midnight, typically within large hotels.
AROUND MEDINA
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Hotel Batha: Place Batha. In the rear of Hotel Batha are two bars - the first is more of an English-style pub lounge, with comfortable leather chairs and fireplaces. Good for a casual drink. In the rear is a night-club type bar that is mostly empty and rarely open.
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Hotel Les Mérinides: A sophisticated option, with a chic clientele, great views of the medina and happy hour from 7-8pm every night.: Route de Tour de Fes
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Sofitel Palais Jamaï: A luxurious bar with creative cocktails and sumptuous appetizers. Stunning views of the medina from the outdoor patio. Address: Hotel Sofitel Palais Jamai, Bab Guissa.
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L'Alcazar Bar: Riad Fes, 5 Derb Ben Slimane Zerbtana. A stylish lounge area in this upmarket riad guesthouse, where stunning design is combined with a warm atmosphere exuding an oriental yet contemporary feel. The lounge bar and smoking room feature a vast choice of cocktails, malt, cognac, wines but also a selection of cigars.
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Mezzanine: Situated opposite the entrance to the Jnan Sbil gardens just outside Boujloud Square. Set over three floors, with an additional outside patio, Mezzanine offers both a cozy lounge bar for a quiet cocktail tapas as well as a comfortable larger seating area for dinners and parties. Resident DJ t night.
NEW TOWN
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Pub Cala Iris: A 2-floor English style pub in the new town. 26 Avenue Hassan II.
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Hotel Menzeh Zalagh: An upscale, trendy bar popular with the fashionable youths of Fes. Happy hour from 7-9pm every night. It has also one of the most popular nightspots in Fes, this club draws a mix of locals and tourists, and plays a variety of popular French, Arabian & American music. Nightclub opens: from 10pm. 10 Rue Mohammed Diouri
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Lephoebus: One of Fes' trendiest nightclubs inside one of the classiest hotels. Hotel Jnan Palace, Avenue Ahmed Chaouki Opening hours: from 8pm